Frequently asked questions

It depends on your house size, roof access, and insulation type. As a guide, ceiling insulation for an average NZ home often runs roughly $1,500 to $4,000, and underfloor insulation is typically similar or a bit less. Get a couple of on-site quotes since access, existing insulation removal, and material choice all shift the price.

Look for a company that offers a free on-site assessment rather than a phone quote, explains the R-value they're recommending and why, and is upfront about timeframes and any subsidy eligibility. Ask for their public liability insurance details and how long they've been trading locally.

NZ Building Code minimums vary by climate zone, but many homes now aim for R2.9 to R6.6 in ceilings and R1.3 to R1.7 underfloor, higher in colder regions. Your installer can confirm the current code requirement for your zone and recommend a sensible level above minimum for comfort and running costs.

Yes, under the Healthy Homes Standards, rental properties must meet minimum ceiling and underfloor insulation requirements, with compliance statements required in tenancy agreements. Landlords should check current Tenancy Services guidance, as requirements and deadlines have been phased in and enforcement has increased over time.

Most standard homes are done in a single day, sometimes half a day for a straightforward ceiling-only job. Larger houses, difficult access, or a full removal and replace of old insulation can push it to two days. Your installer should give you a time estimate with the quote.

If your home was built before the mid 2000s it likely has thin or no insulation by today's standards. Cold floors, damp windows, high power bills in winter, and a chilly ceiling space are all signs. A quick underfloor and roof space check by an installer can confirm what you have and what's missing.

An installer will typically check your ceiling and subfloor access, measure the areas, note existing insulation condition, and look for any wiring, downlight, or moisture issues that affect the job. Expect a written quote covering R-value, material type, area covered, removal of old insulation if needed, and total price.

Insulation helps by keeping internal surfaces warmer, which reduces the condensation that leads to mould. But it works best alongside good ventilation and moisture control, extractor fans, opening windows, and fixing any damp sources. Insulation alone won't fix a house with a serious ventilation or moisture problem.

Properly installed insulation by a competent installer should not affect house insurance, and a well insulated home is generally seen as a plus by buyers, especially those aware of Healthy Homes requirements for rentals. Keep any invoices or compliance paperwork as proof of the work for future sale or insurance queries.

Old, damp, compressed, or vermin damaged insulation should be removed rather than covered over, since it can hold moisture and reduce the new insulation's performance. If your existing insulation is dry, intact, and still has some loft, an installer may be able to top it up instead. They'll assess this on-site.